THE CROSSING

We are now engaged in the preparing for and discussing “When to Cross” the Gulfstream but have a few more days to enjoy the Bahamian Life. The Hopetown Heritage Fair occurred on a gorgeous day. The fair celebrated the past, present and future of the Abacos as being taught to the children. There were speeches (one special one given by a past student who spoke about her wonderful experiences at the school and who is now teaching at the school), presentations by the students, a wonderful maypole demonstration, island crafts, food and a sculling race. Bill and I also took the whaler out on Sunday to watch the dingy races. A nice breeze was blowing, the sun was shining for most of the time and the races were very exciting. From the opti’s (sailed by the children in the Hopetown sailing program)_ to sunfish to a Bahamian built dingy the races were exciting to watch and photograph.

Then the wait was over, on March 2nd we attended the “Barefoot Man” concert on Man o War Cay and highly anticipated event. A few of us decided to take the ferry over instead of our boats due to the number of boats anchoring and possible weather difficulties and I’m truly glad we did. The weather over was just fine but coming home it was pretty bumpy and the wind picked up. As for the concert…it was colorful, lots of people but not the thousands we had heard might be there, and lots of booze. Barefoot man, himself, is a legend in the area similar to Jimmy Buffet but definitely not as good or famous. The lyrics of his songs tend to contain references to the Abacos. There was dancing on tables, lots of drinking, lots of skin showing and a fair amount of enthusiasm. It was a breezy but sunny day and we spent time on the beach watching the crowd. There were a few really tanked young people on the boat back but we made it home safe and sound. Would we go back to the concert next year = I don’t think so but it was an interesting day.

After all this time in Hopetown walking the beach we finally let Simon go free and it was a lovely sight. He stayed close to us and when he would run ahead he would turn around and waited for us. The beach wasn’t crowded because of the wind and cool temperatures but we loved the experience.

Reta, on the boat “Just Us” treated us to her fabulous conch fritters made in our galley with the conch we had collected. We tried to get one more day of hunting for conch and one more day to collect shells from the spoils bank and ea glass but it was not meant to be. I shouldn’t be greedy but I would have loved some more time but the weather didn’t cooperate.

THE CROSSING

For several days we listened on the cruisers net for other boats that were getting ready to leave the Bahamas and we tentatively made plans with a few other boats. However, as we listened to the weather reports Bill quickly decided it was time to go. So we put fuel and water on the boat and at 7:30 am on March 13, after dumping a load of trash, we headed out of Hopetown. I was so very sad, teary and apprehensive. As we were leaving and listening to the cruisers net I decided on the spur of the moment to transmit that “Interim” was leaving the Bahamas (there is always a spot on the program for boats departing and arriving). Much to my surprise we then received many calls from folks we had met during our stay to say goodbye and wishing us a good journey home. We were quite touched by the radio calls.

So now the first hurdle to overcome was going through the Whale, a route that takes you out to the ocean for a little while. Although the weather sounded OK once we were under way it was not a very calm day and isolated rain showers and gusty winds were being forecast. We listened carefully to the radio and heard that 2 power boats went through and so we ploughed ahead. The grey skies and waves were not dangerous but it was an uncomfortable crossing. Once we were on the other side the sky darkened and I asked Bill is we could go to Green Turtle Cay and wait for more favorable weather. He agreed and the skies opened 2 minutes after we picked up a mooring. The rain, fortunately, didn’t last long but we were able to go into town. After all, it was fitting since we cleared customs on Green Turtle Cay on our second day in the Bahamas.

We left Green Turtle Cay at 6:30 the next morning with plans to meet up with our buddy boats at Hawksbill. However, Bill decided to push to Great Sale, a popular staging point to wait for favorable conditions. Great Sale was also the first stop when we crossed from Vero Beach in November.
The trip was long, certainly not flat but doable and when we arrived at Great Sale at about 3 , much to our surprise, we found the sailboats “ChrisDeke” and “Coyote” there waiting to cross the Gulfstream along with a trawler“Ment Tu Be”. There plan was to leave at 7:00 pm, travel slowly all night on the banks (where it is shallow and calmer) and then cross the Gulfstream during daylight. Although Bill and I were pretty exhausted we decided to go along with them. We tried to get some sleep but just didn’t have the time to actually fall asleep (I’m sure a little anxiety didn’t help any). So at 7 we pulled up our anchors and set off. We saw the gorgeous sunset and then at 7:30 am we saw the sunrise. The moon was almost full and the sky was covered with stars and constellations (I even saw two shooting stars sometime during the night). I do not like moving the boat at night, I am fearful because I don’t see well at night. However, traveling with the other boats certainly helped and we were in sight at all times as well as having radio contact. “Interim” was the lead boat since we were the only one to have auto pilot which made it easier for the others to follow. I was certainly glad to see the sunrise but once we got into the Gulfstream the seas picked up and although there were n o whitecaps and not dangerous it was not terribly comfortable on our boat. But once again having our friends around us was a great comfort. We arrived at Ft. Pierce inlet and picked up a mooring around 5 pm on March 14. Needless to say, Bill and I were exhausted.

But then we had to immediately call customs to tell them that we had arrived in the U.S. I was on the phone for almost 2 hours, listening to a recording and then gave up and went to sleep. The next morning I called again and without thinking I told the “government official” that I had tried calling last night but couldn’t get through. He then proceeded to berate me and told me that what I did was illegal and I should have continued holding until someone answered. I was really angry but held my tongue and tried to placate him by being sweet and apologetic, but he really gave me a hard time and I was really nervous. Finally he gave me the number I needed and told me we had to report to the immigration and customs office at Ft. Pierce airport. We rented a van and the 6 of us went to the airport. It took all of 5 minutes to clear customs. However, the official there knew we goofed with the phone call since it was on the computer. There was a moment of fear but he was a gentleman and was quite helpful and considerate and no arrests were made!!!!

After our visit to the airport we stopped at Publix for some provisions and were pleasantly surprised to find that the store was celebrating St. Patrick’s day a little early and there was wine tasting , nibbles, and a band in full costume and of a certain age playing appropriate music. Cindy and Beth from “Coyote” and I had a great time. We all went out to dinner that night and the next morning after a chocolate pancake breakfast on “Interim” they left to start the trip north. We left the next day stopping at an anchorage in Daytona Beach the first night and then we went to the Comachee Marina in St. Augustine for 2 nights. Our next stop was Cumberland Island where we saw “Coyote” briefly before they left to take on the Atlantic Ocean for their trip north.

We stayed at Cumberland Island and went ashore to a most magical place. But will save this for my next blog.

And the days dwindle down…..

I woke up yesterday morning and the first thing I said was “I don’t want to go home”. Simon looked at me with a longing in his eyes confirming his need to stay here as well. Bill was surprised! Yes, this lifestyle has crept into my soul and the thought of the sights, sounds and weather in New York is already giving me a headache. I do miss talking and hanging out with friends and family but the bottom line is I want more of this paradise. Even though March hasn’t been the best weather month - we’ve had more cold fronts with wind and rain since March 1st then we have had since September the nasty weather isn’t really nasty and it is interspersed with lovely days. But the reality is that we are planning to leave Hopetown in about 2 weeks and head to Ft. Pierce, Fl to check in to customs. From there we will go north til we find a place to store ‘Interim’ while we make the side trip to Paris the first of May.
But let me update what’s been going on here. Anne arrived on Feb. 21 in the middle of a monsoon. Fortunately we had a slip at the Conch Inn so the weather wouldn’t be a concern for her arrival. However, that night was the Junior and Senior Junkanoo. Junkanoo is a Bahamian festival that usually occurs in the middle of the night on Dec. 26 Boxing Day (Historically Boxing Day was created on the day after Xmas when the servants were given boxes of leftover food) or in the first hours of light of the first day of the new year. However, due to a significant delay in in funding Marsh Harbor’s Junkanoo was on Feb. 21. Groups create colorful costumes and choreography as they parade down the main street while goat skin drums rhythmically reverberate along with cow bells and brass horns. The feeling is so vital that everyone moves to the rhythms (well maybe not everyone, Bill left early). Our Junkanoo was delayed due to rain and we were told that the last group performed close to 2:30 am. The groups were also judged on best music, best costumes and best overall presentations.. My photos didn’t come out that great but it was a really magical evening.
While Anne was here: She went up to the lighthouse with Bill to light the mantle, she found a rare “Helmet Conch” and 17 sand dollars. She TAUGHT Uncle Bill how to easily make decorative turks head knots (what fun it was for us to see him on the learning side of the table). We went out to eat at Cracker P’s - a beautiful view of the water and ‘Interim’. And we motor SAILED from Shell Beach back to Hopetown and SAILED from Tilloo Bank (where the sand dollars were) all the way back to Hopetown. She found lots of sea glass and of course had all the chocolate chip pancakes she could eat.
We were sorry to see her leave and it seemed she had the same weather as when I came back to the Bahamas from NY so we booked a room for her at the Conch Inn. Just an aside - we were hungry about 3:30 and were told that all the restaurants were closed from about 3 to when they opened for dinner at about 5. Luckily there was a snack place open and after serving us they, too, closed.
Last Friday Bill went deep sea fishing with four of our friends. I was supposed to go by my back has been bothering me and I didn't think trolling and lolling around in a bumpy sea was good for me. When they got back it was fabulous. Everyone caught a fish...they brought in 3 mahi mahi and 2 wahoo. It also seems that out of 6 boats that went fishing on that day ours was the only fish caught. What luck..and so far we cooked some wahoo and some mahi mahi = so very delicious.
And then there's the conch blowing contest. I didn't get a horn done and Thursday evening there was going to be a contest. Fortunately, our friend Steve came by and he and Bill took one of the Conch and made it into a horn and yes, I actually made a nice sound for a few seconds. I didn't win anything but it was great fun. I'll give a concert to you all when I get home.
One of the major, big events during the winter is “The Barefoot Man” concert. We were told to attend even though there would be “thousands” there. We decided to take a ferry to Nippers on Guana Cay (Nippers is a restaurant with a fresh water swimming pool on a hill overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.) because we didn’t want to anchor with so many boats just in case the weather turned. The day was gorgeous, but windy, and the concert was a disappointment. Barefoot Man sang but you really couldn’t see him (Abaco‘s answer to Jimmy Buffet- he is a legend here but certainly not even close to Buffet’s performances). The place was packed with people, young and old, who primarily were enjoying the booze. I thought everyone would be dancing but there were only a few on the table performers. We hung out on the beach with people we knew and then took the ferry home. I’m glad we went but it is something we won’t do again.
So what’s next? There is the heritage fair here in Hopetown tomorrow with the theme of past, present a future of Elbow Cay (Hopetown being the name of the town) with lots of involvement by the children. Then I will try to get in as much sea glass ,shell and conch collecting as the weather permits since Bill will start the motor to head north way before I am ready to do so.

Hoping for better weather during the next 2 weeks and fair winds to help us cross the Gulfstream…..